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Module 1: Understanding Textile Fibres, Yarns, and Fabrics

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    Before you can use materials, you need to know what each of them is so you can differentiate between them.
    Fibres
    The term fibre can be used to describe an animal, mineral, or vegetable substance. It can be natural or synthetic.
    Yarns
    This material emerged in the 18th century using a variety of methods, including open-end friction and centrifugal spinning. These processes all work to twist and spin fibres, which forms the yarn you see and work with today.
    Fabrics
    Fabrics are products or materials that are made by weaving, knitting, or crocheting. There are also non-woven fabrics, which are constructed through twisting, braiding, and felting.
    At first, it might seem like fabric is a simple cloth, but to understand fabric, you have to look at its ingredients. If you look at a basic fabric sample, you might notice that it consists of multiple threads. You can find the quality of the fabrics hidden within these threads
    What is a Thread?
    All threads begin as simple fibres that can either be very weak or strong depending on their properties. When you twist together short fibres or continuous fibres, it produces yarns, which are responsible for the strength and flexibility that make up a good thread.
    This process is called ‘spinning’.
    How to Determine Thread Quality
    When you are selecting a thread in garment design, there are several factors that you should consider.
    Raw Material
    Processing
    Ease of Use
    Strength
    The little white label on your clothing is a very telling piece of information regarding your garment. However, to understand what you will read and eventually write on that label, you need to have a grasp on the main fibres used in the fashion industry.
    Let’s begin with a basic understanding of fibres and their applications in clothing.
    Natural Fibres
    These fibres are split into animal and plant fibres. An example of a natural fibre would be cotton or wool because these fibres come from natural sources.
    Regenerated Fibres
    The next group of fibres that you need to be familiar with are regenerated fibres, which were introduced in the late 19th century as an inexpensive solution to silk. These fibres begin as a raw material known as cellulose and are then reformed or regenerated. For example: Rayon and Viscose
    Synthetic Fibres
    This final group is another man-made fibre that is frequently used in the fashion industry, primarily to manufacture inexpensive clothing.
    Polyester
    Nylon
    Acrylics
    Metallic fibres
    Polymer fibres
    Microfibers
    Plant Fibres
    The following are a few of that you will see and work with the most:
    Cotton
    Flax
    Hemp
    Jute
    Animal Fibres
    Some of the most popular animal fibres include:
    Silk
    Wool
    Cashmere
    Camel
    Fabric Construction:
    Woven Fabrics
    A woven fabric can be manufactured in different widths and cut in different shapes.There are three types of woven fabrics that you should be familiar with:
    Plain weave
    Twill weave
    Satin Weave
    Knitted Fabrics
    Knitted fabrics can be either weft knitted or warp knitted. 
    Laced Fabrics
    Lace consists of a network of yarns or threads formed into an intricate design. There are two common types of lace fabrics: Trimming and Nylon
    Woollen Fabrics
    Woollen fabrics are loose woven fabrics that are constructed from wool yarn using a plain or twill weave.
    Blended Fabrics
    A blended fabric is a combination of two different types of yarns, which results in a third type that contains both properties of the fabrics.
    Non-woven Fabrics
    When a mass of fibres is held together with a fusing action of heat, adhesive, or chemicals, it becomes a non-woven fabric.
    You need to take the following fabric performance characteristics and finishes into consideration when deciding what fabric to use:
    Abrasion Resistance
    Absorbency
    Antibacterial
    Anti-Static
    Flame Resistant
    Stain Resistant and Stain Repellent
    Wrinkle Recovery