Fabric Sourcing, Patternmaking, Sizing, and Measurements
Sourcing material and Contractors
This module was written to prepare you to cut and grade your own design patterns. You began by learning how to source fabric suppliers, and the many different options you have available to you. They are as follows:
Before you choose to do business with anyone, you need to ensure that you run through these questions and include the answers in your sourcing strategy:
Sustainability and Ethical Policy
If you want to ensure that your designs reach full production, it is important to ensure you are sourcing fabrics from reliable suppliers who can guarantee the stock that you require.
The first place you should begin searching for reliable suppliers is online. Next, you should attend trade shows. Some examples of trade shows include: The Textile Forum, Premiere Vision and The London Textile Fair.
Fabric and Trim Storyboards
You also learned about fabric and trim storyboards, which is the next step after sourcing the materials you need for your designs.
A storyboard is a similar concept to your mood board, except you record information about the trims and fabrics that you have chosen for each garment in your collection.
Include the following information on your fabric storyboard:
Fabric Style, Article Number, Colours Chosen, Fibre Content, Care Instructions, Width and Price per metre.
Pattern making for Fashion Design
As an emerging designer, you know there are several tools you need in order to get going. You also have a basic knowledge of pattern making, sewing, sizing, grading, and measurements. Additionally, you learned how to take common measurements like the bust, hip, and waistlines.
Now that you have gathered your tools and equipment, you should collect your pattern paper, which varies in weight from thick to thin.
This module taught you how to add collars, cuts, and pockets to your patterns, which will help you to add finishing touches to your designs.
Your pieces will need to fit together precisely. The following are the steps that are followed that will translate your design sketch to a pattern:
Marking the Block - a basic bodice block, which shows horizontal lines of the waist, bust, and hip lines.
Dart Manipulation – controls extra fabric and helps create the shape of your garment.
Slash and Spread – adds volume and flair
Sleeves – sleeve construction
Sizing, Grading and Measurements
While you are cutting patterns and preparing to drape and fit them for final design, an important thing you need to know and understand is sizing.
The first thing that you must remember is that women and men are not sized the same, so if you are designing for both markets, always keep that in mind.
Grading is a specialised area in pattern cutting that involves scaling a pattern to a different size by increasing points of the pattern according to measurements on the British standard sizing chart.
Throughout your career, you will find yourself taking measurements often, so you should familiarise yourself with the common areas on the body that you will be measuring. They are as follows:
Neck girth, Shoulder length, Top bust girth, Bust girth, Under bust girth, Waist girth, High hip girth, Hip girth, Arm length, Front length, Back length, Waist to hip, Waist to knee, Outside leg/Inside leg, Bicep, Elbow, Wrist girth
When you are cutting patterns, you have a variety of different collar and cut options to enhance your designs. The collar is a design feature that attaches to the neckline of a garment and changes the way the garment appears.
There are three basic methods of construction for collars:
Using one of these three methods of construction, a variety of collars are constructed including some of the more popular types:
Right angle construction collars
Adding pockets to your garment can define the style of your apparel and serve a functional purpose as well.
Pockets come in two categories; firstly, set-in pockets, which place the pocket on the inside of the clothing.
Alternatively, the second category places pockets on the outside of the garment. These are called patch pockets.
When you are designing pockets, remember they should be functional, so try to make them large enough for a hand to fit into. Also, the positioning of a pocket is an important factor to keep in mind, and it should be easy to access.