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Module 1: Fabric Sourcing, Patternmaking, Sizing e Measurement

    Study Reminders

    Fabric and Trim Storyboards - Introduction
     After you have selected a supplier that is suitable for your needs, you will compile a fabric and trim storyboard. 
    A storyboard is a similar concept to your mood board; only you will be recording information about the trims and fabrics that you have chosen for each garment in your collection.
    It might seem confusing to add another board to the design process, but just think of this step as a way to organise the many different swatches, trims, and materials that you have chosen for your garments.
    You can create your fabric and trim storyboard using a physical or digital approach, but a physical approach is usually more effective because you can include swatches of each fabric and trim.
    After you have chosen your approach and compiled your fabrics, you should include the following information on your fabric storyboard:

    Fabric Style - An example of a fabric style might be summer print, black and white check, or chevron pattern.
    Article Number- The article number will vary depending on the material or fabric you are using, and your supplier assigns this number.
    Colours Chosen- When you were envisioning your design and placing colours on your mood board, you selected a colour story. This is most likely the theme that you have chosen for your collection, which is what you will indicate on your fabric storyboard.
    Fibre Content- The fibre content could include cotton, rayon, polyester, or any other natural, or synthetic material you chose to work with.
    Care Instructions- In this section, you will indicate specific care instructions for your fabric, and this will vary depending on the fabric and fibres you selected. For example, you might leave hand washing instructions on a rayon fabric.
    Width - In this section, you will note the width of the fabric.
    Price per metre- The last thing indicated in the fabric storyboard is the price per metre.

     Pattern making for Fashion Design
    After you have sourced your fabric supplier and ordered your material, you can begin cutting patterns for your designs. In fashion design, a pattern acts as a template where parts of your garment are traced on. 
    As an emerging designer, you will need to have a basic knowledge of pattern making and sewing.
    To begin, you should gather the essential tools and equipment necessary for the job. 

    #17 dressmaker silk straight pins
    A pincushion or magnetic wrist straight pin holder
    Paper and fabric scissors
    Mechanical pencil and sharpener with #4-H lead for patterns
    Blue and red coloured pencils to identify pattern changes
    Green, red, black, and blue felt-tip pens to record pattern information
    ½ inch x 12-inch flex general ruler
    36-inch ruler
    18 x 2-inch plastic ruler
    24 x 14-inch metal tailor’s square ruler
    Triangle ruler with measurements to square lines
    Ringers or hanger hooks
    Push pins
    Stapler and staple remover
    Scotch tape
    Black twill tape
    Tracing wheels
    Metal weights
    60-inch long measuring tape
    Tailor’s chalk
    Simflex folding measure

    Basic Maths Skills
    While you were gathering your tools, you may have noticed that there were several different rulers, which you will need for measuring your patterns.
    In the fashion industry, you will find yourself reading measurements often, so it is important that you have sufficient maths skills. 
    If you don’t, then you should practise, so you are ready when it comes time to work with rulers, measuring tapes, percentages, and fractions. 
    Keep in mind that every phase of production in fashion design will rely on some maths, so you should be able to perform the following essential skills:
    1 Take measurements and record them up to 1/16th of an inch
    2 Calculate yardage for single and mass-produce garments
    3 Provide detailed measurements on spec sheets for garments
    4 Apply maths instructions to a developing project from a worksheet
    Pattern Paper
    Now that you have gathered your tools and equipment, you should collect your pattern paper, which varies in weight from thick to thin. Pattern paper weight is differentiated with the following code characteristics:
    Heavyweight pattern paper 
    This is a tag bound paper primarily used for production patterns. A heavyweight pattern paper will have a weight code granite tag of (.007) to 5X.
    Lightweight pattern paper 
    Weight code – one to five double duty marking paper. This pattern paper is a lightweight marking paper, which is used for making markers and developing first patterns.
    Colour-coded paper
    This pattern paper has two functions; it indicates right side up of pattern pieces or indicates the design division to which the pattern belongs.
    The Pattern
    At this point in the process, you are ready to cut your pattern, which will come from your sketches that were inspired by your mood board. 
    As you can see, everything is unfolding in stages and coming together to form one unified collection. You can cut your own pattern, hire a pattern cutter, or you can even choose to enter the field as a pattern cutter, but for now, you should know and be familiar with how to cut your own design patterns.
    Your pattern will begin as a three-dimensional garment, which is seamed together to create one piece.
    Every pattern piece contains points or notches that will correspond with adjoining pattern pieces that will accurately depict seam lines on your garment. Your pieces will need to fit together precisely.
    Marking the Block
    The first step in pattern cutting involves translating your design sketch to a pattern, then marking your block. 
    This simply means you are beginning with a basic bodice block, which shows horizontal lines of the waist, bust, and hip lines. 
    Parts of the block should be punched or notched to indicate where fabric should be attached. 
    Next, you add the seam allowance, which will vary in size depending on the neckline.
    Dart Manipulation
    Darts will control any extra fabric and help create the shape of your garment. 
    They are also the most flexible and creative part of pattern cutting. 
    For example, a dart can be used to make a style line, pleat, or to gather fabric.
    Slash and Spread
    Another technique you can add when cutting patterns is the slash and spread. 
    With the addition of slash lines that reach one end of the platform to the next, this technique adds volume and flare.
    One critical area of pattern cutting is sleeve construction, which you can choose to add to the bodice or set inside of it. 
    You can choose the set-in sleeve, which is the most basic selection, or a 3a-f, two-piece, or laid-in sleeve.